Burnt pixel tester install#
Burnt pixel tester zip#

MAKE SURE THAT YOU LIFT UP ON THE PLASTIC OVERLAY BEFORE YOU DRILL YOUR HOLES UNDER THE SPEEDOMETER AND TACH, DO NOT DRILL THROUGH IT! I'm kinda conscious about static charges since I am supposed to work on an anti-static bench at work with a wrist strap and everything. Step 7: I used a drill press with a towel on the metal table. Lastly, this one is again, directly on the edge of the clear plastic circle piece with ridges in it. Note the exaxct location here, right on the edge of the clear plastic circle that has ridges in it, DIRECTLY below and offset 1/8' to the right of the '0' (10 mpg) And remember that the torx screws are only about 1/4' below the surface of the white plastic you're about to drill through. Use a drill bit no bigger than 1/4' to drill these holes, and in fact I think I used 3/16'. Mark them with a permanent marker as you go. Going from left to right these are the exact locations of the holes. But how do you get to them? From the other side of course!

Burnt pixel tester install#

Seen here is our quarry, these 4 little Torx screws are what need to come out so you can install your ~$20 flex cable. Step F: Now that we've removed the front lens and the rear housing, you're left with the cluster only.

Burnt pixel tester zip#

Don't forget to pop the clips under the LCD display with zip ties. The whole assembly should then pop apart. I found it easier to do the black plug first then pull apart as you sequentially push in the clips on the blue and white. Look closely at the blue and white plugs here the retainer clips need to be pushed in while, again, exerting pressure on the housing - pulling it and the gauge cluster apart. The Blue, white and black plugs seen here are where the clips are located.Īnd here is what the clips look like so you can have a mechanical understanding of how they work. Remove it and put it somewhere safe for reassembly.įor this next part you'll likely need a dental pick or a long very flat but stout utensile to close up the clips on the 3 plugs on the back of the gauge cluster. One thing you'll want to watch out for is the little square of plastic that shows what gear you're in, falling out. Step 4: Once you have gotten the 2 halves apart, you'll need to remove 8 Torx screws that hold the cluster to the back housing, they're circled in red. They're circled in Red here in this image from Burnout187 Start in a corner and go one by one around the assembly. You'll need needle nose pliers to grab onto these cross/x shaped posts and twist them slightly to line up with the unlocking holes all the while exerting pressure on the housings (prying them apart) until you get these cross/x shaped posts all 'unlocked'. Step 3: Now that you have your zip ties inserted in the tabs to keep them open, you have to somehow grow like 5 extra sets of arms. I think it would be best to state here that I used extensively this writeup by burnout187, (and I even borrowed a few pics from his DIY since some of my pics of the same stuff came out blurry) to disassemble, but I was left with a few questions so I decided to do my own in hopes I could help others with some of the same questions.

Step 2: Now we're ready to start disassembly. Or you'll be coming back outside to a dead battery when you're done with the repair as the lights go on when you unplug the headlight switch. Plug the headlight switch, the dimmer and the fog light switch back in after you have the cluster out. A word of the best advice I can give you right here. Sorry I have no pics of this procedure, I will add them later because I ordered a Gauge Ring set from DDM tuning so the cluster has to come ont one last time. Good idea those eBay sellers had trying to sell unnecessary stuff to us BMW owners since our pockets are so deep. I use a soldering iron daily/weekly at work, I've been soldering for 23 years (For those that remember the how old are you thread, yes I am only 30, but I worked at the family business since I was 7 soldering, fixing circuitry, etc.) and guess what, this repair DOES NOT NEED ONE. You'll notice I did not use a soldering iron at any time for this. So, buy your kit from eBay, doesn't matter which one, just don't get the one with the absolutely unnecessary soldering iron tip. Initially I was very disappointed because I thought I had royally botched the job, but it turned out that I had inadvertently burnt out a couple bulbs so the LCD did not light up like it should have. Good afternoon everyone, I'm pleased to finally have my Pixel Repair completed and now with enough pictures that I think I can safely guide those of you who were slightly nervous about doing this repair.